After spending one month in Cape Verde, passing from Sal Island to Sao Vicente on to Santo Antao and back to Mindelo, Sao Vicente... I can assure you I really wanted to learn some useful expressions. Capeverdean people speak "kriol", but consider Portuguese as their second language. Depending on the island, English is widely spoken as well. But if you want to make real connections with the locals or simply come closer to the Capeverdean vibe, I can only recommend to bear the following expressions (in creole) in mind.
1. Tud Dret?
2. Sab p'afronta!
This is the best answer you can give to "Tud dret?" "Sap" in creole means "cool". If you're being asked your opinion on something or just asked how you're feeling, "sap" is the most authentic way to answer. "Sap pa fronte" is the comparison of "sap" and lets everybody know that you're feeling fabulous. Or that you like something very much.
We used "sap pa fronte" almost everyday. Either when we were asked how we are or if we were enjoying Cape Verde. "Sap pa fronte" - Of course we do!
Food plays a very important role in Cape Verde. Especially when it comes to "bafas", the Cape Verdean version of tapas, the matter is very serious. Most "bafas" come from the sea: moreia (fried moray), buzios (shell entrails), lapas (limpets), cod croquettes etc. Each more delicious than the other and the perfect match to your cold beer!
If the waiter asks if you're enjoying your meal, a determined "Sebim" is the best way to answer. It can be freely translated by "It tastes good!"
It's always good to know how to make a cook happy. Especially in his own language.
Let's stick to the food (my favorite topic!!). For those who love to travel culinary (like me!), Cachupa is the "must-try" when you visit Cape Verde. The national dish of the archipelago can be eaten for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Anytime is Cachupa time.
Cachupa needs to be cooked for several hours on open fire. Some say that's the reason why on several islands almost no trees are left... Hearty food lovers will enjoy it! The stew consists of corn, beans, sweet potato spices. Optionally tuna or pork meat can be added. It is usually served with a fried egg on top and a "linguica" (a spicy sausage). Catchupa is normally the cheapest dish on the menu and keeps you satiated during HOURS!
And "sebim!", - It tastes great!
In Cape Verde you don't catch a bus to get to your destination, but you get there by "aluguer" or "colectivo". Aluguers usually consist of vans with up to 15 seats... which doesn't necessarily limit them to 15 people. Apparently Cape Verdeans love to travel "closely together": don't be surprised if you'll be asked to sit a kid on your lap.
Aluguers don't run according to a schedule. They depart when nobody else can fit in (literally!). Since waiting for the last person to fit
in can take up to 1 hour, you better choose an aluguer that is already mostly fully charged.
Drivers will sometimes ask you if you want to get to your destination by "taxi". This means you'll travel alone in the van but the price will increase tenfold (not exaggerating!). If you prefer the more economical version, just insist on traveling by "aluguer" or "colectivo". And - oh magic - the price decreases!
6. Ponche & Grogue
You can't leave Cape Verde without having tried its national drinks: Grogue and Ponche. Grogue is made out of distilled sugar cane and can have up to 40% alcohol. Grogue is the basis of ponche including molasses, lime and fruit. Ponche can be compared to liqueur and is much sweeter than the grogue.
Some say that grogue can heal you from every evil. Be that a headache or a cold. They can't be so wrong about it
since after one grogue shot you truely feel "desinfected" inside out. I preferred to have grogue in my Caipirinhas.
Conversely, ponche is a real sweet treat. There are many kinds: coconut, honey, passion fruit (my favorite mmh!) or tamarind. Just try them all and find your own favorite.
Cape Verde rhymes with music! You can hear music everywhere in the streets of Mindelo or on Sal Island. The archipelago's most famous music style is called "Morna". Cesaria Evora, she's worshiped as a goddess especially in Mindelo, exported morna to the world. On the anniversary of her death, the family of Cesaria Evora organizes a commemoration march through Mindelo and a concert in her honor. The stage is set right next to the entrance of her former house and the A-list of Capeverdean artists is performing. That evening I saw Baú, Fantcha and Tito Paris. All big names in the industry. And they were singing on a couple of wooden planks and only a few meters separated them from the public!
Morna is all about "sodade", a melancholic feeling of nostalgia. In this way morna can be compared to Portuguese fado. In Mindelo you can listen to morna in almost every bar, but I recommend "Casa Morna" and "Nho Djunga" to attend live concerts.
"Morabeza" referrs to the Capeverdean concept of hospitality and the kindness of its people.
The term is synonymous to their relaxed and gentle way to welcome strangers on the Capeverdean archipelago.
We felt the Capeverdean "morabeza" the most when we were on the island of Santo Antao. This place became one of my favorite spots on this planet. Right after the Azores. People welcome you with a bright smile and they transfer you a bit of their relaxed composure. Everybody greets you on the street ("Tud dret?") and some even offered us their houses to stay or gave us to taste ripe fruits of their gardens.
I felt very fortunate to experience the ominous Capeverdean morabeza first-hand. In Santo Antao it made me feel like at home and it was the reason why we prolonged our stay twice.
You think my list isn't complete? Of course not!
The creole of Cape Verde is such a rich language that I'm sure I haven't mentioned all of the most typical expressions. If you know about any other expression, please let me know in the comment form.